For a perfect & easy to create roll-hem seam
3-thread seam close-up

This is a close-up of my roll-hem & multi-stitch zig-zag seaming connection.

The three-thread roll-hem is done on my Bernina 800DL serger.
The zig-zag serpentine stitch (#4) is done on my Bernina Artista 730

green thread = needle stitch
yellow thread = upper looper
orange thread =lower looper
red thread = multi-stitch zig-zag (done on the regular sewing machine, not the serger.)
As you can see the two roll-hems are butted then connected with the red multi-stitch zig-zag or serpentine stitch.

Example

I do not need stabilizer with this method. I use my clear plastic foot so I can see exactly where I am stitching and make sure the two sides are coming together nicely. This seam looks nearly as beautiful on the inside of the garment as it does on the outside. It is great with silks, rayons, cottons, and a God-send for working with velvets.

For the three-thread roll-hem:

I keep the three tension settings very tight; I use higher numbers like 7-9 on my machine.

The stitch length is set as tight as possible for a close-together stitch-length.

I keep my cutter blade set out a bit, especially when working on a lightweight silk, so the roll-hem edge has something to catch and roll.

The thread is Sulky rayon decorative thread, 40wt. I use the 800 yard spools; if you only have the small spools, watch carefully for the thread running out.

If you are using “used” spools, put the one with the least amount of thread on the needle.

Listen to your machine; you can hear when the tension changes the least amount. Stop immediately and check your thread paths. Sometimes the thread on the spools will catch in the plastic slot and get hung up. (The slot I am referring to is where the manufacture lodges the end for easy finding.)

If you have more questions about my seaming techniques or this tip, please don’t hesitate to email me. It could be that the answer to your question is a tip I will want to add.

If at first you have a bit of trouble, remember that much of fine sewing is just practice!